My daughter and I left the chaos of HaNoi early in the morning. Our driver collected us from the Apricot Hotel and we headed north for 4 hours towards the coastal town of HaLong. I found the outskirts of Hanoi fascinating, as we passed big city shopping malls juxtaposed with tall, skinny traditional homes in need of repair. Eventually the city gave way to rural scenes with paddy fields and the odd cow roaming free!

We arrived at Halong Bay around midday and, after some refreshments at Tuan Chau pier we boarded our Paradise Luxury Cruise. Once the boat departed, all guests met in the dining room and we were served with a substantial buffet lunch which comprised traditional Vietnamese cuisine and was very enjoyable. At this stage people pretty much kept their own company but over the next couple of days, the thing I love most about travel,  friendships blossomed from shared experiences.

Ha Long Bay (Hạ Long meaning descending dragon)is situated in the northeast of Vietnam, along with the National Parks of Ba Be, Bai Tu Long and Lan Ha Bay. The Gulf of Tonkin has waters of emerald greens and turquoise blues and more then 2000 “islets” jut majestically from its surface, without a ripple. Undoubtedly, you will recognise Ha Long Bay even if you do not know the name, as it is a UNESCO World Heritage site famed for its outstanding natural beauty.

The islets are geological formations, karsts, of limestone and developed under the humid tropical weather of Vietnam. Limestone (calcium carbonate) dissolves relatively easily in slightly acidic water and the tropical rains have percolated through cracks in the limestone, widening and deepening the cracks over millions of years, until caves and internal lakes formed. There  are a number of cave systems and lakes within the island and the tops are dense jungle vegetation.

There were about 600 steps to the entrance to Hang Sung Sot (Surprise) cave. The views of the bay on the way up were magnificent which made the effort even more worthwhile. The cave has 3 vast chambers and a number of stalactites and stalagmites. The final chamber was beautifully lit which made it quite enchanting.

After leaving the cave we boarded the boat again and sailed to Ti Top Island where some of our group walked to the peak for the panoramic vistas, whilst the rest of us sat on the beach, shared stories and, watched some crazy German tourists take a cold plunge! We shared our boat with travellers from Canada, the US, Europe and Asia and I loved hearing their stories and learning about their journeys, some of which were quite emotional.

We returned to the boat for a cooking demonstration in Vietnamese cuisine as we cruised the bay to our overnight anchorage at Ho Dang Tien.  We experienced local rice wine for the first and, probably the last, time! There was a well stocked bar and it was good to enjoy an evening cocktail. Dressing for dinner meant wearing traditional Bao Dai dress (provided) and official photos.

We travelled in early March and, with winter just ending, it was a chilly 18 degrees and shrouded in mist which added an ethereal feel to the stay.  In the mornings the sense of tranquility was wonderful and Tai Chi on the deck seemed a perfect start to the day.

The second day afforded time to kayak and explore the islets  at Bai Tu Long Bay  or swim to Thian Canh Son beach, however the water was extremely cold and kayaking was the preferred option for most of the guests. We witnessed some courageous tourists braving the chilly waters to swim but none from our boat!

Fishing Village at Vung Vieng

After lunch, we set sail to Vung Vieng and, at the pier, boarded traditional bamboo boats owned by the local people. It was so peaceful, just the sound of the punting pole breaking the surface and the boat moving through the water.

There are not many villagers left and the school house is reminiscent of days gone past as the children are  raised and attend schools in Ha Long town. The villagers farm fish which are caught off shore and then farmed in netted enclosures. There is a small “shop” and, as the takings go directly to the villagers, we bought some small souvenirs. There is also a pearl farm and show room which is really just aimed at tourists. The real pearl in my eyes was seeing a traditional way of life, very simple and focused on living and survival.

The next morning we left the boat very early on a promise to see some monkeys and a beautiful internal lake on one of the islands. Setting off on a bamboo boat we sailed through a small cave like entrance towards the light at the other end. Sure enough, sitting on a rock  like a sentry at the entrance to the internal lake was a monkey.  Exiting the cave we found ourselves on an internal lake open to the sky with a troupe of monkeys playing in the vegetation. It is always precious to see animals in their natural habitat so we were overjoyed at this encounter prior to leaving HaLong Bay.

On the drive back to Ha Noi I asked the driver to stop at the rice fields so I could take some photos. He was very happy to oblige and we walked among the paddy fields. Our guide took us to speak with an elderly lady working in one of the fields.  I loved the warmth of the greeting we received from her and, was amazed when she insisted that she have her photo taken with us!

Arriving back in HaNoi that evening, it seemed a world away from the tranquility of the three days we had spent in HaLong Bay.

Our two night cruise was with Paradise Cruises is approximately US$700 for two nights/three days in 2017.

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