First visits to Oman usually focus on the major attractions in the north of the Sultanate. In my experience, it is well worth adding a few days to explore the southern Dhofar region of Oman including the provincial capital city of Salalah.
I first visited Dhofar in February 2013 when it was a dry, sun-parched brown and returned during the khareef in August 2015 to experience its transformation to glorious verdant greens. This province of Oman has a unique climate and is especially attractive to visitors of the Arabian Peninsula in the height of summer, when the air is cool and the mists and rain provide welcome relief from the searing temperatures of the rest of the peninsula.
Visitors from all over the Arabian Peninsula flock to Dhofar to enjoy picnics in the drizzling rain, a choice that would be strange under normal circumstances to an Australian or Briton, but seems natural when you are there. Wadi Dharbat is a popular spot off the Mirbat Road and, the day my Omani companions and I visited, was replete with the sound of happy laughter drifting in the breeze.
Surprisingly, this is not all Dhofar has to offer. There are a number of sights to explore as day trips from Salalah and if you travel north for approximately 3.5 hours, you will find yourself at the edge of Rub Al-Khali, the Empty Quarter. A vast wilderness of deserts sands made famous by English Explorer Thomas Bertram in his expedition to cross the desert from Dhofar to Doha (1000km), arriving in February 1931 and by Wilfred Theiseger in his book Arabian Sands. This year a small party from Outward Bound Oman made this inspirational journey documenting their adventure at Crossing The Empty Quarter and a soon to be published book:
https://www.facebook.com/CrossingEQ/
http://www.crossingtheemptyquarter.com
It was the original account of Theiseger and his amazing journey and survival against the odds, that inspired my fascination and dreaming of the desert therefore I was excited to find myself at the gateway to Rub Al-Khali for the first time. The vast sea of dunes, dappled with wind blown art and, the incredible silence, made me feel so small and insignificant. The beauty in lone plants surviving the harsh environment and the wonderful light made for stunning photography. I sat atop a dune and reflected on what it must have taken to set out across a seemingly infinite desert.
I travelled to Rub al Khali with a guide in a 4WD for a day trip but there are companies who operate camping excursions further into the desert (see travel information at end of article) and this is something I have every intention of doing in the future.
On the drive to, or from, the desert, take time to visit the archeological site of Shisr believed to be the lost city of Ubar (“Atlantis of the Sands”) and discovered in 1992 by a group of US researchers and British Explorer, Ranulph Fiennes, using satellite technology. The city is thought to have been the crossroads of the frankincense trail and an important trading centre.
Oman is world renowned for the frankincense trees and their aromatic resin and this area is reputed to have been the starting point of the journey of the three Magi or wise men on their way to Bethlehem. The groves are numerous and I learned that that there are 3 grades of frankincense with the white colour the highest quality.
Day trip to Job’s Tomb
The tomb of the prophet Job is just 35km north of Salalah on the hill top of Jabal al Qara’ and is well worth the drive. En route to this important religious site, I met camels crossing the road, cattle and goats grazing under shady trees and visited frankincense groves.
There is a nominal charge for visiting the site (baisa rather than rials) and you are allowed to take photos. Out of respect for this religious site I covered my head during my visit.
Coastline of Mughsail & Sarfait Road
One of my favourite spots during my two visits to Salalah, was the rugged, spectacular coastline west of Salalah at Mughsail. I watched the fishermen repairing the nets in the bay and the frenzy of seabirds as the boats returned to shore with their precious cargo.
At the visitor centre, I enjoyed watching young children startled by the blow holes when they suddenly unleashed the power of the sea and the shrieks of joy as the cold water cascaded down on them.
I travelled with Omani friends last year and we took the Sarfait road beyond Mughsail towards Yemen (2 hours away, so there is no risk despite current troubles in Yemen). The views from this impressive, British designed road, are breathtaking.
© Wanderers Dreams
On this windy steep road, we climbed nearly 1000m in the car and at the top I gazed back at Mughsail, blanketed in a coastal haze that made it even more impressive. The road stretched onwards downhill with more u bends and views into wadis where camels grazed. The rocks, mainly limestone, are sparsely populated with succulents, some small boabs and, in places coastal frankincense trees.
We drove back to the cliff tops just above the bay of Mughsail and picnicked with glorious views in both directions.
We watched the sunset over the cliffs and the sea and I felt enormously privileged to be able to travel to such awe-inspiring destinations
© Wanderers Dreams
Travel information
On the first trip to Dhofar, I stayed at the 147 room Hilton Salalah Resort hotel about 15 minutes outside Salalah on the highway to Mughsail and the shores of the Indian Ocean. Current prices approximately AUD$350 per night for August 2017
Address: As Sultan Qaboos St, Salalah 211, Oman
Phone:+968 23 133333
In August 2015, my choice as a base was the Salalah Rotana Resort at AUD$352 per night including taxes as this was peak season.
Address: Taqah Road Souly Bay, Taqah Road, Salalah, PC 215, Oman
Phone:+968 23 275700
http://www.rotana.com/rotanahotelandresorts/oman/salalah/salalahrotanaresort
For excursions into the Rub al Khali:
One company who operate camping excursions further into the desert over 4 days is
Silk Road Tours Oman / Salalah Tour Oman, Salalah, Oman
Phone: +968 9066 5544
Mobile: +968 9949 3655
Email: mohamed_salalahtour@yahoo.com
Internet: tour-salalah.com, salalah-tour.com
Wanderers Dreams 